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Post by acelaphillies on Nov 25, 2014 19:45:46 GMT -5
It is no secret that electrics locomotives don't get as much attention in the modeling world as diesels and steam do. I have seen a good number of articles/videos about weathering diesels, but not much is out there about weathering electrics. However, when I see a weathered electric model it always inspires me to weather my own models. Compared to many of you on this forum, I am probably a novice modeler. I have never weathered a locomotive, so I am looking for some advice/techniques. I did find one article: model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/16132. However, I know that a few of you guys have weathered your own electrics. Anyone have any advice? |
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Post by backshophoss on Nov 25, 2014 21:38:03 GMT -5
At times PC's black dip hid dirt well on GG-1's,E33's,and E-44's,even after the paint faded a bit.
A hint of "road crud" was always seen at the trucks and underframe levels.
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Post by mttrains on Nov 26, 2014 7:48:34 GMT -5
Which locomotives are you looking to weather?
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Post by acelaphillies on Nov 26, 2014 15:34:21 GMT -5
Potentially, the HHP-8, AEM-7, and maybe even the Acela. I have a lot of prototype photos, but I don't know where to start. Do you guys use powders, airbrushing, or both? I think as far as models I would like to start with the HHP-8. I would be the least upset if something went wrong. I have Amtk #650:  I would like to remove the "Acela" logo, and paint the top hatch, then give it a good well-used look. It looks to me like the roof collects a lot of darker grime, while the sides get a lot of brownish dirt. Any suggestions for techniques or what paint/powders to use. I have to make a large paint order for a few of my projects, so I need to know what to buy. |
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Post by mttrains on Nov 26, 2014 20:14:31 GMT -5
For my weathering projects I use powders, dry brush techniques and an airbrush. Whatever can give me the result is what I use. The small logo on the HHP8 can be removed. I have done it on three of them and you would think they came that way. I used a small clean paint brush, a toothpick, Micro Sol and scotch tape. Apply the Micro Sol to the area and allow to dry. Take some tape and apply it over the decal to be removed. Use the toothpick or a scrap piece of styrene to burnish the tape on like you would a dry transfer. Once you are done with that part remove the tape slowly. Some decals show results after a few attempts and other took a long time but all were removed with patience. Patience... lots of it and I did three HHP8's. For the radiator vents on the side I used Tamiya smoke paint. Capillary action took it to the ends with the loco resting on the side. Once the paint dried the other side was done. I only did this after the decals were removed since the decal process required lots of handling.
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Post by acelaphillies on Nov 26, 2014 22:49:48 GMT -5
mttrains, thanks that is very helpful!! I can't wait to try out that technique for removing the Acela logo.
Have a happy Thanksgiving.
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Post by mttrains on Nov 27, 2014 1:08:05 GMT -5
My pleasure. Let me know how it works out for you. Happy Thanksgiving to you too.
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Post by acelaphillies on Nov 27, 2014 23:35:47 GMT -5
I had a nice Turkey day with my family, and after the feast we all watched the Eagles beat the Cowboys!  I got home with a little spare time so I tried out removing the Acela logos on the HHP-8. You were not kidding when you said this needed patience! It just started to take off a little of the pair on about the 7th application. |
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Post by Amtrak207 on Nov 28, 2014 0:08:27 GMT -5
Gotta love that!
It depends on what kind of ink different companies use. Athearn (at least the did) used ink that came off pretty easily with some Walthers Solvaset and a Q-tip. Bachmann I am not so sure, but glad you got it off! I may have to try the Tamiya smoke paint as I usually use a thin grimy black for vents, etc.
The noses of these units usually get a good amount of bug splatter (as mainly any engine), on the Amtrak models they just show more often. I tend to use a cotton ball or one of those foam makeup applicators to apply some dirt and thin black colors, tap it on a piece of newspaper until it's almost gone, then apply it to the model in stages (it seems the layer effect is more realistic than putting it on all at once.)
I think a little chalk or airbrush "dusting" on the roof and underbody would pretty much do it. Then seal with Dull-Cote, that'll get rid of the sheen (MASK THE WINDOWS) and seal all the progress you made.
-Tom
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Post by mttrains on Nov 28, 2014 2:01:54 GMT -5
Acelaphillies when you put on the smoke paint (if you use it at all) just apply the brush to the vents and let the paint work. Try to avoid strokes as this caused me to have bubbles to eliminate. After that result I tried the way I recommended. I applied it a few times to each side, let it dry and moved on to the next model. Once the windows are masked and the model is clean of oils and dirt (the real stuff) I airbrush a fading wash from the top to represent the sun fading the paint. This is mostly thinner with a light gray paint. 90% thinner and 10% paint. Once that is done I apply dullcote or model masters flat prior to powders. Underbody gets any detail painted first and then weathered using some rail brown and any color combination representing the steel dust grayish brown hue. This is added in light, transparent layers with proper drying time between. For this I like using polyscale mixed with 70% isopro alcohol or badgers mixed with warm water. It has a nice flat finish. I add some lighter subtle colors for variation based on photos as a guide. I always always always use photos as a guide not to create an exact copy but as a reference.
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Post by acelaphillies on Nov 28, 2014 9:41:00 GMT -5
Guys, thank you both for the tips. They are all very useful. Unfortunately, I ran into a little trouble with the Micro Sol and the Acela logo. Pretty soon after the blue for the Acela logo started coming up, the silver behind it started coming up as well. The only thing I can think of that may have gone wrong is the tape. I am using the cloudy matte finish Scotch tape. Is the clear Scotch tape what you used instead of the cloudy stuff?
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Post by mttrains on Nov 28, 2014 10:30:28 GMT -5
Ouch!! so sorry that happened. I used the same tape you did since there are loads of it in my house. My wife being a teacher and all. I never had that happen to me on the HHP-8 but it did happen on another model. I took out the airbrush and touched it up. Prep for the process and clean up was longer than the process.
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Post by acelaphillies on Nov 28, 2014 10:44:26 GMT -5
Don't sweat it! To be perfectly honest, after reading some stuff online, I tried removing the logos one time before. That time it was suggested that I use an XActo knife, so that's what I did. I wound up scratching the paint a little that time and I had not completely gotten the Acela logo off either. So this time, I had a goood test surface to try out this technique. I think I will keep trying the Micro Sol, but if worst comes to worst, I will just remove the logos, theen touch it up with some platinum mist. I think if I feather out the paint nobody will not be able to tell.
For the drying time on the Micro Sol, did you just wait until it was all evaporated off the surface, or did you let it dry for even longer?
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Post by mttrains on Nov 28, 2014 16:26:50 GMT -5
For the drying time I waited until it was evaporated off the surface. Once most of the decal is off and you have bits of it remaining, you could apply the Micro sol again and rub it in slightly not using much pressure at all. From my tests those remaining fragments are a bit stubborn but will come off. I once used a screwdriver and micro sol to remove a decal with unsatisfying results...  guess I was a bit over zealous. I have grown since then |
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Post by acelaphillies on Nov 28, 2014 17:00:29 GMT -5
Ok, thanks!
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I got home with a little spare time so I tried out removing the Acela logos on the HHP-8. You were not kidding when you said this needed patience! It just started to take off a little of the pair on about the 7th application.
guess I was a bit over zealous. I have grown since then