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Post by Amtrak207 on Nov 28, 2014 21:15:15 GMT -5
For the drying time I waited until it was evaporated off the surface. Once most of the decal is off and you have bits of it remaining, you could apply the Micro sol again and rub it in slightly not using much pressure at all. From my tests those remaining fragments are a bit stubborn but will come off. I once used a screwdriver and micro sol to remove a decal with unsatisfying results... guess I was a bit over zealous. I have grown since then +1 here! Here are some of the 1st run P42's I did in 2007 imagenupload
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Post by backshophoss on Nov 30, 2014 2:20:05 GMT -5
Wouldn't using a Q-tip dipped in 91% alcohol be better at removing pad printing? It's rare that decals are used as part of the manufacturing process
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Post by Amtrak207 on Nov 30, 2014 17:26:34 GMT -5
I'm sure it can. I went by an old MR article from the 80s lol.
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Post by mttrains on Nov 30, 2014 21:16:33 GMT -5
I have used 91% as a paint stripper. It's not fast acting so it may work. I personally have never tried it. Please let me know the results.
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Post by backshophoss on Dec 1, 2014 3:06:11 GMT -5
I have 91% to remove lettering and some hard to remove paint on the Bachmann Metroliner cab fronts,just take your time. It's possible the 91% might weaken the glue bond of the shell and the cab front.
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Post by slowfreight on Dec 17, 2014 23:35:42 GMT -5
I've seen a number of different methods for removing lettering or numbers from decorated models and it really seems to come down to personal preference for a method that works. As far as weathering, the best place I go to get advice is at www.protomodeler.com. Every good weathering job starts by gathering photos of the prototype. If your weathering doesn't look like the real one, don't be afraid to change/remove it. Anymore, I do almost nothing with an airbrush, outside of fading a paint scheme. I use AIM powders, but other brands will work. I also do quite a bit with thinned oils. Other folks have had good luck working with cheap craft acrylic paint. It's good to disassemble the model or otherwise protect things like window glazing. Plus, it's a really good idea to seal your weathering in layers by using dull-cote. Most people airbrush it, but I'm lazy and use a rattle can. Before: After: My pics aren't great, but the point is to work from your proto photos religiously. These were done with a combination of thinned oils and powders. I could do better now, but I'm certainly not embarrassed by these.
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Post by mttrains on Dec 19, 2014 10:30:17 GMT -5
Slow freight, the rear stack on the "after photo" which I believe was for the HEP for the commuter cars, did you scratch build it? Nice work by the way.
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Post by slowfreight on Dec 19, 2014 20:45:07 GMT -5
Thanks! Yes, I scratchbuilt the mufflers. As common a part as that may seem, no one makes them...yet. They're a combination of brass tubing and styrene rod.
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Post by mttrains on Dec 19, 2014 23:13:34 GMT -5
You are right. No one makes them. I was searching the Walthers catalog and the internet in the past hoping one day to find one. No luck. We were actually talking about that on a different posting some time ago. I am sure we all will appreciate your instruction on how you did it and the weathering of it as well. Just saying....
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Post by acelaphillies on Jan 13, 2016 15:41:38 GMT -5
My NJT Multilevels from IMW have turned out to be a pretty big undertaking, so I took a little break to work on my HHP-8. I have always wanted to remove the Acela logo. I tried Micro Sol, sandpaper, erasers, etc. but I could just never get rid of the logos without leaving some sort of mark. Well, I finally just removed the logos and then painted over the panels. I used an alumminum colored paint because I thought it matched better than Platinum mist. The match is not 100%, but I am happy with the results. IMHO, this just makes the model look "right" to me. By the time I started railfanning, Amtrak had already removed the Acela logos from the HHP-8. I was always used to them having plain silver sides. Now my model looks that way to me. Here is my partly assembled model after being painted:
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Post by backshophoss on Jan 13, 2016 18:22:39 GMT -5
If anything,the wash racks at Ivy City,Sunnyside,and Southhampton Street,kept the carbodies clean ,except during the worst winter weather months forcing shutdown,due to freezing temps.
During the summer months,"Bug splats" become the losing battle on windshield glass and cab noses/fronts. Windshield glass gets cleaned. From a distance,it looks like mud splatter,and from time to time,wildlife and bird strikes will happen, needing to break out the pressure washer for clean up.
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Post by acelaphillies on Feb 18, 2016 15:04:13 GMT -5
If anything,the wash racks at Ivy City,Sunnyside,and Southhampton Street,kept the carbodies clean ,except during the worst winter weather months forcing shutdown,due to freezing temps. During the summer months,"Bug splats" become the losing battle on windshield glass and cab noses/fronts. Windshield glass gets cleaned. From a distance,it looks like mud splatter,and from time to time,wildlife and bird strikes will happen, needing to break out the pressure washer for clean up. Yes, I am not done with this loco. I want to weather it with powders too.
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cab4
Member
Posts: 149
Primary Railroads: Conrail, NJ DOT, Amtrak, SEPTA, NJT
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Post by cab4 on Feb 19, 2016 15:39:52 GMT -5
Looks good! I'm glad you were able to fix the paint after trying to remove those logos!
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Post by acelaphillies on Feb 19, 2016 19:10:01 GMT -5
Looks good! I'm glad you were able to fix the paint after trying to remove those logos! Thanks, yeah I am pleased with how it came out.
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