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Post by backshophoss on Feb 6, 2014 0:42:12 GMT -5
As far as New Haven style catenary,take a look at the New Haven history+tech site, www.nhrhta.org Figure on a small fee if not a member.
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Post by jers2709 on Mar 1, 2014 18:05:09 GMT -5
Is there a chance of Mr Rubbo showing how he does his construction in this forum or has he been published in one of the Model RR mags?? He's been published in The Keystone Modeler in a 3 part series on catenary construction. I have the articles if anyone wants them. PM me or reach me at nec.nj.layout@gmail.com or www.facebook.com/NECNJDIV
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cab4
Member
Posts: 149
Primary Railroads: Conrail, NJ DOT, Amtrak, SEPTA, NJT
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Post by cab4 on Mar 22, 2014 0:11:59 GMT -5
I agree with both of you. IF a US manufacturer did get into catenary, I think it would be Bachmann as well. They seem to produce the most electric locomotives. I would like to see a catenary system that clicks into their EZ track line. That doesn't seem like to tricky of an idea. In fact, since the tracks come in standard sizes, you could pretty much make the catenary standard too. The other option would be to "scratchbuild" what you need from Plastruc or Evergreen stock. Both Kalmbach and Carstens did traction modeling books in the past,unknown if they are still in print or in digital format now but covered the basics of construction of overhead wire. I met a guy who appeared to have successfully made the catenary with styrene. I only met him twice at my Hobby shop. He showed me pictures, but I've never bumped into him ever again. I am told that the styrene would have difficulty holding up to the strains involved, but then this guy used thin brass wire much like Andy Rubbo does. It looked really good (everything prototypically to scale), and I'd love to know how it has held up over the years Thin wire has its own perils though. Indeed, when I last talked to Andy, he was showing me how he rebuilt is pantographs to be much lighter on the wire, and so that the upper portions broke away in cases of a snag. He apparently was having quite a bit of trouble keeping the wires from breakin under the strain! This is cab 4's work and involves some metal work as well,but seems to to be "Heavy Duty" enough for modules,that thread is 6 pages long. Heavy duty it is, my Reading Company Module took a direct hit from a carjack in the trunk of my car, and it only popped some of the hangars. The Catenary pole itself didn't even move a little bit. Unfortunately, that thread is a little outdated. I'd love to do another one (indeed, I tried to film myself building the Reading Catenary, though somewhat unsuccessfully). My construction is pretty much the same as Andy Rubbo's, except admittedly I'm a little sloppy in that I haven't created all of the jigs and specialized tools he recommends. I have a well worn print out of his Keystone Modeler articles. The main difference is that I use heavier wire (0.025 instead of 0.015 and smaller), and in some cases, steel wire instead of phosphur bronze. I would love to make a diorama or some kind of "portable" catenary setup for use in taking photos or displaying models. A full "working" catenary system on my layout would be a project that I don't have enough years to complete! Plus, it would definitely be a headache to work around when I need accessibility after a derailment of to do scenery or maintenance work... Anybody else have an opinion? Happy modeling, Ed I think the one thing that I've learned so far is that catenary is not THAT hard. Generally speaking, I can produce a few poles a night, and several lengths of wire in an afternoon, when I have all the supplies i need (and I need to order more!) What is really helpful is to produce jigs for putting it all together. Even though you will have to custom build structures for every inch of the railroad, a little forward planning makes this pretty easy. And of course, once you do a few, the rest gets easier. As far as accessibility goes, its only a headache at first. I've gotten used to it, and found little frustration reaching around and in between the wire. If electrics are your thing, don't talk yourself out of catenary. Its not nearly as hard as people make it out to be. Speaking about portable Dioramas, I'm part of an NEC modular club. When I get my module back, I'll start making it look like the North Elizabeth train station in the late 1970s. We do ALL electrics though (New Haven, Milwaukee, etc). Most of us are in the Philadelphia area, though we have interested members up and down the east coast, and even a few out in the midwest. We've already been to the East Penn Traction Club Convention last May, and the Model Trolley & Transit Meet at New Brunswkick in October (there is video of us there on youtube, though few catenary is up at that time).
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Post by backshophoss on Apr 22, 2014 15:26:57 GMT -5
Vollmer GMBH in Germany,that produced a usable catenary system in HO scale has shut down, anybody using this system better stock up NOW!!! This is in the current issue of MRH.(apr'14,pg 126) mrhmag.com
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Post by backshophoss on Jun 2, 2014 21:23:47 GMT -5
Seems there was a US based manufactuer,Model Memories lurking in the background. www.modelmemories.com is the site address. Also does NYC style 3rd rail,NYNH&H anchor bridges(for catenary) and good looking single track poles for the New Canaan/Danbury Branches and sidings off the main line.
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cab4
Member
Posts: 149
Primary Railroads: Conrail, NJ DOT, Amtrak, SEPTA, NJT
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Post by cab4 on Jun 3, 2014 20:28:36 GMT -5
Model memories is alright, but you kinda have to plan around it, and it costs slightly more than scratch-building when it comes to the PRR stuff. Since the kits are somewhat "rigid", I suspect its difficult to get the kits to work for areas you need them too. While they will make custom poles for you, it requires you measure everything out and know for sure the correct dimensions.
On the more latice-like catenary, you can't go wrong with the Model Memories. Alternative methods just won't ever look as good or be as practical.
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Post by backshophoss on Jun 8, 2016 21:59:52 GMT -5
Peco and Sommerfelt have created a "Modern" 25kv Catenary system,that seems to easy to build the May '16 issue of "Railway Modeler" a British Magazine(published by Peco)had a separate booklette, basicly the instruction Manual for the system developed by them. Of note:the June '16 issue of "Railfan and Railroad" has a cover story of Denver's RTD "Heavy Electric" system to DIA and the future plans for the SL V Clones built by Rotem. The Peco system is a match to that catenary. Website: link
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Post by gmpullman on Jun 8, 2016 23:12:18 GMT -5
Well, this thread has spanned almost three years! I'm happy to report that there has been a new offering for PRR catenary. I recently got my hands on some PRR catenary towers produced by a modeler using Shapeways 3D printing techniques. I am very impressed with the results! Perfect? Maybe not exactly "perfect" but for the overall cost and the excellent choice of styles available they are the best out there for the "Corridor" modeler! A few of his simpler 2 track styles sell for as little as $11 to $16. Fancier stuff is closer to $75. Still... for the time involved in trying to scratchbuild—fuhgettaboutit!
The finish is just a bit "fuzzy" but by no means a real detriment. If you get really close to a rusty cat tower they look a little fuzzy, too.
The examples above have only a light coat of Krylon primer on them.
When I finally decide on a permanent location I'm going to sink a 5mm x 5mm super magnet into the scenery base and glue a thin iron strip onto the bottom of the catenary base. I do not plan to string wire other than the cross body span and steady spans. I'll probably use green colored EZ Line for this.
I have since purchased several more styles including a lattice anchor bridge. It looks fantastic! I'll post additional photos when time permits.
This is the vendor that I purchased these items from:
DESIGNDYNE
Regards, Ed
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Post by acelaphillies on Jun 16, 2016 15:49:14 GMT -5
Ed, thanks for sharing pictures, they look nice on your layout! What would you have to do to these towers to hang wires from them? I assume you would have to drill some sort of anchor into them? Unfortunately they are still pretty expensive too
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