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Post by backshophoss on Nov 13, 2017 21:57:21 GMT -5
The early P2K models have become swap meet material at times,and after long term storage,"Freeze" up or just don't run! In some cases a clean out of the drive trucks of factory supplied grease will be the cure. Some of the early P2K's may have axle gear cracks,that render the model immobile. Time to troubleshoot the problem,it's not a total lost cause. 1.Pull off the bodyshell and set it in a safe place along with any parts removed to get the shell off. 2.Put the model on a test track and apply power,if it seems to turn the drive a little bit then stalls, most likely the trucks need to checked,remove the worm gear from both trucks,place the worm gears and drive shafts in a safe place! 2a. Apply power again to see if the motor runs freely now. 2b. Try to move the model with a finger,look at the gear on the truck,if it barely moves,that will need to be serviced The model should move freely with the worm gears removed. If you have worked on Athearn drives in the past,Most P2K drives are considered to an Athearn "clone" 3. Remove one of the trucks from the frame,then remove the bottom plate of the truck,you should be able to then remove the geared wheelsets from the truck to inspect. Have a container handy to place the parts in. 4. Inspect the axle gears for "hairline" cracks,you might need to use an "opti-visor" to see the fracture 5. Dismantle the rest of the truck,remove any grease and let the parts soak in a container of 70% alcohol overnight, Have an old toothbrush handy for cleaning the rest of the old grease off.
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Post by backshophoss on Nov 14, 2017 0:13:11 GMT -5
If you found any cracked axle gears,remove the wheels from the axle and place the wheel and the square bearing in a container of 70% alcohol for cleaning,Athearn Part # ATH 60024(Axle gears for the SD40-2 and SD40-T2) is the best bet for replacement axle gears Walters may have replacement wheelsets listed in the monthly Flyers from time to time. When pressing the wheels on the new axle remember to put the square bearing on first! Use a expandable "Water Pump pliers" to put equal pressure on each wheel when pressing them on then use the NMRA gauge to set the wheels properly,twist carefully each wheel as needed to set gauge. 6 Using an old toothbrush,remove any remaining old grease on the gear,dry everything off,then reassemble the truck Before putting the wheelsets back in the square bearing slots,put a drop of oil on each bearing. Check that the truck rolls freely after assembly! Replace any damaged gears as needed,Athearn drive gears can be used as replacement parts. Before snapping the worm gear on,put a drop of oil on each bearing on the worm gear,after placing the truck back on the frame! 7. If needed do the same steps,1 thru 6 on the other truck. 8. The motor is also an Athearn "clone" open frame type,if you need to solder on any wires,remove the clip before adding heat. if needed Athearn motor springs and brushes can be used as replacements. Put a drop of oil on each motor bearing. 9. Check all wires from the circuit board to the motor and lights,repair/replace as needed. 10.Do a test track run before putting the bodyshell back on! This should get that P2K model running again.
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Post by slowfreight on Nov 14, 2017 0:51:23 GMT -5
FWIW, I've got a P2K that I found wouldn't speed-match and dragged like a dead sled until I pulled the circuit board. Then it ran like a champ coupled to my Kato units.
The factory mechanism was fine, but the circuit board was a problem. Not sure if anyone else has run into this, but even though I repower my GP30s I find the stock P2K mechanism is a pretty good one.
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Post by backshophoss on Nov 14, 2017 2:25:19 GMT -5
Considering that the early P2K lightboards were not DCC ready,that turns the conversion to DCC as a direct rewire to a 9 p1n JST plug or to a decoder,in some cases a direct replacement to a Digitrax DH 163LO or DH 165LO lightboard type decoder. IF the board is not setup as "plug 'n play",better off to "pitch and replace" the lightboard.
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Post by antoniofp45 on Jul 19, 2018 16:28:12 GMT -5
Very helpful tips, as I've decided to keep my HO LIfe Like P2K units and hop them up, one by one. The E-units will get "music" from Loksound. Thanks!
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Post by backshophoss on Jul 23, 2018 0:39:44 GMT -5
If memory serves,the early P2K E's had frames that were all weight,not sure if you can mill a speaker space on that.
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Post by antoniofp45 on Jul 30, 2018 14:22:51 GMT -5
Hi! The large weight (or BRICK, lol!) does come off separately. For dual speakers, you can mill or down the front section of the weight, behind the cab and cut out the flat plate above the front truck. That will provide space for one speaker. The 2nd speaker can be mounted over the rear truck area as the weight is already notched open in this section. The "Sugar Cube" speakers are increasing in popularity for HO locomotives. But I prefer to get the largest speaker(s) that would fit in the space available. Of course, for For the non-powered dummy B-units, you can just about go "Ga-Ga!" and install a couple of QSI "Hi-Bass" units. If memory serves,the early P2K E's had frames that were all weight,not sure if you can mill a speaker space on that.
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