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Post by backshophoss on May 21, 2013 20:12:18 GMT -5
To most of the long time modelers,converting cars with truck mounted couplers to body mounted Kadee's is a simple 1/2 hour-1 hour project  To the younger modeler, it's a "how did you do that?" after derailing in the plant on show day trying to back into the yard. with a train of truck mounted "horn hooks"/Mchenry couplers. Some of Bachman "Spectrum" series cars have a coupler box "linked" to the truck for "steering" purposes,wind up getting loose/worn over time,then the "disaster" bug strikes! While converting the cars,take the time to do other items needed to be done(add weights,detail parts, passengers,etc...). Here's a rough tool/parts list: (Part#'s are Walters) Pack of KD #5 couplers(basic 2 pair of couplers)(380-5) Pack of Draft Gear box shims(380-211) Pack of washers{red .015}(380-208) Pack of washers{grey.010}(308-209) Pack of 2/56 plastic screws(380-256) Pack of 2/56 metal screws(947-1156) Pack of 2/56 washers(947-1273) Pack of 2/56 nuts(947-1253 Metal/1255 Nylon) Coupler height gauge{plastic}(380-206) 2/56 drill/tap set(380-246) Pkg of Plastruct strip{.030x1-1/4 ABS}(570-90362) Trip pin pliers(380-237) optional Pin vise(230-811){Mascot} Hob-e-tac(785-195){HO scale "lock-tite"} A level section of straight track for testing. "Heavy weapons"(motor tools)should not be needed unless drilling thru metal frames!! |
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Post by backshophoss on May 22, 2013 18:21:25 GMT -5
PART 1 CONVERTING A TYCO/MANTUA OLD TIME PASSENGER CAR (  because it's in plain sight!) RR were the "original" recyclers in the past,when new cars were added to the fleet,others would get downgraded to other uses. In the case of the OLD TIMER passenger car,now used as a caboose/drover car. To start: Remove the trucks from the cars and cut off the coupler Using the Kadee box to set where the drill is to be used, drill and tap for a 2/56 plastic screw. Note: this would be a good time to swap out the original wheel- sets for better ones. Assemble the KD-5 Coupler box and install it to the car frame, DO NOT CUT THE SCREW YET!! put the trucks back on and check the coupler height with the Height gauge,use the Draft Gear box shims if needed to correct. (needed to use 1 .010+1 .015 shims to get it right) Now cut off the screw flush with the floor,paint as needed Note: paint will act as "lock-tite" so the screw wont back out. Photo is after drill/tap step done. Attachments:
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Post by backshophoss on Jun 3, 2013 20:40:33 GMT -5
Part 1 Continued, Here's a shot after shimming for coupler height Attachments:
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Post by backshophoss on Jun 3, 2013 21:30:17 GMT -5
Part 2, Con-cor/Rivarossi(AHM/IHC) car conversion This will also work for Athearn LW and HW cars  OK, when you look at the underframe of the car, there are 2 main center beams,to mount the coupler, you need to create a mounting pad,cut a piece of .030 strip a hair wider then the space between the center beams. Cement/ACC that piece to the car. While that sets up remove the truck mounted couplers fro the truck,check or change out wheelsets as needed, also add weights to car if needed,and add interior and passengers as well. Using a coupler box to set location to drill/tap for 2/56 screw Install coupler box,shim as needed for coupler height. Here's a shot after it's done Attachments:
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Post by backshophoss on Jun 3, 2013 21:36:21 GMT -5
Checking coupler height on Con-cor Dome car Attachments:
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Post by backshophoss on Jul 31, 2013 2:03:46 GMT -5
OK,sometimes you got to be some what creative, the challenging Rivirossi cars for example,a simple "fix" 1st, a Heavyweight OBS When I converted a ATSF cafe/OBS,ran the screw down from the top of the obs deck and used a 2-56 nut to hold the coupler on. (That car runs during the Holiday season,a la Santa train) when I did this DRGW OBS ,got lucky,had a short enough 2-56 screw to use on this car.  Pics to follow. |
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Post by backshophoss on Aug 1, 2013 18:12:21 GMT -5
OK,Here's the 1st pic. Attachments:
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Post by backshophoss on Aug 1, 2013 18:33:42 GMT -5
The Rivorossi LW OBS is next,you need to remove the dummy coupler 1st(push out the pin that holds it in place),then using a file,expand the "box" so a KD-5 shank fits,then(drill/) tap the pin hole for 2-56 screw to secure the coupler. Attachments:
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Post by backshophoss on May 3, 2014 2:17:22 GMT -5
Bachmann/Spectrum cars that have the "moveable" coupler pockets tend to"sag" after a time,
can make reverse moves into yard tracks a bit of a pain as the coupler "gladhands" snag
on switch rails.
The linkage is held together with rivits that get loose over time,in most cases the hole for
the coupler pocket mount is at the best location to mount the fixed coupler pocket,
however,a #26 is handy to use on the Full lenght Dome cars.
Pics to follow soon!
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Post by backshophoss on Aug 4, 2014 1:11:25 GMT -5
Just got a sleeper from a freind,painted in ph III,believe it's a late production AHM/IHC car,
however had no weight or interior in it,the plan is to use it as a "stand in" for 10021 Pacific Cape
to go with the Kato Business car AMTK 10000.
Have an AHM sleeper interior kit,and can put split shot in the wells on the molded underframe,
will rewheel the trucks with proper 36" wheels.
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Post by backshophoss on Nov 12, 2014 3:33:41 GMT -5
Bachmann Amfleet I's are a quick convert to KD's and can be used as a replacment chassis using a Metroliner body shell for Cab cars. First cut off the truck mounted horn hook at the truck,now remove the bellows and bolster anchor rod detail,to allow rust/rail brown paint on the wheel centers, if you're up for it,nows the time to do the truck mod for better rolling cars, also remove the bulb and light post in the center of the car,save the leads to the buld for later reuse. Attachments:
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Post by backshophoss on Nov 12, 2014 3:55:49 GMT -5
Now would be a time to paint the "sick" yellow interior to a blue/gray color. Now cut off a piece of Plastruct "H" stock and glue/ACC it to the car's underframe. (Plastruct #90546) Then drill and tap for a 2/56 screw |
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Post by backshophoss on Nov 14, 2014 1:43:46 GMT -5
I plan to use the car in "push-pull" service,so installed a KD#118 on the "Bathroom" end of the car, then a KD#5 on the other end. The shelf coupler helps when in "push mode",keeping the couplers alined properly. |
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Post by backshophoss on Dec 23, 2014 19:31:09 GMT -5
Picked up an Amfleet I "Amdinette" car in not great,maybe fair condition,not sure if this was "American GK" or early Walters model using AGK's molds. Figured I could Rehab it to use it with the Amfleet I coaches in phase I (Bachmann) I have stored. Parts were about to fall off the car,the weight was loose and the "glass" was barely holding on |
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Post by backshophoss on Dec 23, 2014 20:38:23 GMT -5
The wheelsets on the car seemed to look wrong(ie small),had a set of 4 Bachmann Metroliner/ Amfleet wheelsets to swap in.(you could use NWSL's 40" wheelsets{Walter's # 53-371094 or 53-371294}MSRP $12.95) The orignal wheelsets were closer to 36" wheels,brass axle,1 metal wheel,1 plastic wheel, very dirty,now only good as scrap pile material. Had to create a "plate" to keep the wheelsets in the truck frame from some strip stock on hand, and wound up replacing the orignal truck screw with 6/32 bolt/nut combo. Retained but not hooked up is "bronze" electic pickup spring,MAKE SURE the insulated wheels are on the same side or you might have a short!!  |
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because it's in plain sight!)
Pics to follow.
